It was like being in another world and coming back home at the same time.  On the street, right off of the shuk, we sat in the Basta. Every item was unkosher, and the place is totally uncool – and that is what makes it a place that Tel Avivians are willing to stand in line and wait for.  19 Hashomer Street.  Everyone goes there.  No one looks around to see who’s there.