we only joined our group that walked from apollonia to Jaffa today when it was in Jaffa.  Even though we were exhausted and our feet are still injured we wanted to hear what Rami, our guide, had to say about a place we kind of know for a change.  So we began with my second favorite Sabil.  It is at the side entrance of the second largest mosque in Jaffa.  And the entrance is named after the Sabil Abu Naboot.  

A sabil is a water fountain provided to the public.  Abu Naboot, however, from my memory, was in charge of Jaffo and was so called because he ruled with the aid of his naboot – his club, a heavier version of a baseball.  early 1800s. mohammed aga ashami – mammaluk.  

Ezi insists that the sabil is not called after Abu Naboot, but Sabil Suleiman.  But the sign denies his absolute knowledge.  how strange.

we wandered around Jaffa, and somehow our archeologist guide seemed to feel obligated to relate tales of war, pillaging, mass murders and rape.  

Hey, we’re in this gorgeous place.  And they are ancient.

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how can I look at this city and the new city of Tel Aviv without admiration.