Some of you remember when I began this unfiltered unedited report of my days in Tel Aviv.  It began on April 2, 2002     when shahids had been blowing themselves up in the city and people far away were calling and asking me whether I was still alive.  The grammatical mistakes and the typos attest to the fact that I could not bear to look back and relive what I myself wrote.  I still do that.  just to explain why this is so choppy.